The first one lasted over two years sitting outside and transporting all of the melted chocolate ice cream to its forever home. But no more. The garbage disposal macerator I introduced here met its match after some rain. At a campground with a very soggy site, it got a little too much water into its open bottom.
Of course, I’d not been terribly happy with the design of the Badger disposal I bought locally. It was easy enough to get the 3″ coupling over the inlet, but the tailpiece was kind of flimsy, and the power cord (not included) connected with wire nuts at the open bottom of the unit, where they could easily get wet.
Last fall, I posted about another brand/model with excellent reviews on Amazon and a better price than what I paid for my original one. Taking my own advice, that’s what I bought when I needed a replacement:
I have to laugh a little at some of the names involved with these things. Unlike the first one, it won’t Badger you or your…uh…stuff. It’s not in-sink, so we wouldn’t use an In-Sink-erator. We want the best for dealing with our waste, and while there’s no Waste Queen out there, we can get a Waste King.
At under $60, delivered next-day (yes, my tanks were full), unboxing this model was kind of interesting. The body is a lot smaller in diameter (height about the same), meaning it won’t take up as much bay space. It’s a kind of textured grey/white housing instead of brown. It isn’t quite as obnoxious sitting outside, but won’t let me ignore a leak should one occur–brown on white will definitely stand out. Of course, for sanitary reasons, knowing if you do have a leak is a good thing.
Unlike the old one, the bottom is completely closed. Water, dirt, and moisture won’t be able to get at the motor windings and bearings. It also comes with its own cord, with a standard 15-amp 3-prong molded plug on it. So far, so good.
Getting it Set Up
So here’s the bad news. The outside diameter of the inlet is a little bit bigger than a 3″ pipe fitting, so I couldn’t just move everything over. With full tanks, I needed a solution right away, and wasn’t about to go spend double the money on another Badger.
A trip to the local hardware store netted a 3″ rubber pipe coupling, which had enough give to make it over the disposal’s inlet. A 3″ sewer cleanout fitting was used in the other end of the rubber fitting to connect the rest of the stuff I used previously.
Trial by Fire
With full tanks, it wouldn’t get the luxury of test run with relatively clean water. Fingers crossed, I plugged it in and got ready to open the drain valves. Right away, I noticed it was a lot quieter–would it do the job as well? Sure seems to, taking over 200 gallons of black and grey water to the sewer connection about 30 feet away in just a couple of minutes.
This post will take me longer to write up than it did to actually do the project. I have a portable icemaker that’s several years old sitting right behind the passenger seat. It keeps a fresh batch of ice ready all the time, but it recently started showing the “add water” light even when the reservoir was filled. A new one can be had for $101.02 on Amazon, and would have been here in a couple of days.
I couldn’t see getting rid of an appliance that likely just had a bad microswitch. When I listened to it pumping, it sounded like there was a little backflow from the switch/check-valve assembly–a small plastic part that I wasn’t going to be able to track down for a buck or two. Instead of replacing it, I decided to look at the control board and see if I could bypass it. Fortunately, the board is relatively simple, labeled in English, and there’s a wiring diagram on the back of the enclosure.
Sure enough, you can. If it runs out of water, I might ruin the pump, but then I’m just back to where I am now. When you look at the board, the water switch plugs in on the right side. The switch should be normally open, closing when water is present–but it isn’t. I temporarily closed the contacts myself, and lo-and-behold, it works!
Now we just need to make it permanent. Here’s what the back side of the board looks like:
The red circle shows the water switch connector. It’s easy enough to bridge the two contacts with solder–here’s what it looks like afterwards:
Here’s what it looks like making it’s first batch of ice after being dormant for a while:
Cleaning while it’s Apart
If you look closely in that last picture, you can see some crud in the water tray where the ice cubes are made. It’s some sort of mold, and it’s not very noticeable when the icemaker is closed up and running. But I don’t want it in my ice cubes, so now is the time to clean it up.
A little bit of bleach wiped around the inside goes a long ways, but also make sure to catch the underside of that tray–it was similarly ugly:
But we can’t just return to a normal Icemaker…what about Clear Ice?
First of all, what am I talking about? Clear ice is ice that’s clear like glass instead of frosty looking. When water freezes in a normal ice cube tray, it expands all at once and creates a pattern of voids that appear white in color. When you look at ice from a commercial ice machine though, it’s clear. How’s that?
A commercial ice machine, making clear ice, continuously flows water over the mold while the ice is being made. This allows the ice to freeze in layers, similar to the way a nice clear icicle is formed.
Normally, the icemaker runs the water pump until the tray overflows, then it shuts off while the compressor runs. If we make the pump run while the compressor is on, we’ll get clear ice too–the same kind of stuff you’d normally spend big bucks to get.
A little more examination of the board shows that the compressor is controlled by a relay with a 12V coil. The ground side is switched, just like the pump which also operates at 12V. So we can jumper between the two and both pump and compressor will run together:
How well does it work? Well, since we’re still working with a horizontal geometry, water doesn’t circulate uniformly. So the ice isn’t perfectly clear–just mostly clear. The first batch of ice takes a little longer, as it’s cooling the entire reservoir’s water content, instead of just what’s in the cube tray.
Overall though, for basically zero cost and a few minutes with the soldering iron, I’m pleased.
It’s new awning time! After a tear in the Sunbrella fabric that was put on in 2012, it was time for something a little different. I was never happy with the Sunbrella material–it tore easily, and was too tightly woven to allow light breezes to pass through. In other words, it was always fluttering. At 5 years old, it needed to go.
My old Safari motorhome had a different material–instead of an acrylic fabric, it had a vinyl-coated polyester mesh. When I sold that rig at 21 years old, its original awnings still looked brand new. There wasn’t the slightest tear, they breathed well, and water couldn’t pool on them. (In a hard enough rain, water would drip through) I’ve been able to find the same stuff, but only in 60″ widths, and it’s quite expensive.
While looking for something else, I came across this material that I could get for about $75 big enough to do one of my 10’x16′ awnings with no seams.
It’s not exactly what I wanted, but it’s an open mesh, non-fraying, and most importantly, cheap enough to try. If you look at the reviews, there are lots of people that leave them out in all kinds of weather (not always without incident), standing up better than you’d expect with most RV canopies.
NOTE: This post is something I wrote back in May 2015, and was published on the Escapees HDT Forum. Here it is with a few minor updates. Still my most-used electronic driving aid!
After adding a Volvo hood-mounted mirror, I still wasn’t quite happy with how well I could see my front right corner. I feel like I have really good coverage down the side with the normal and wide angle mirrors, the over-the-window mirror, and now the hood mirror.
This afternoon, I added a camera to the mirror, facing down, so I can finally see how close I really am. Total project cost was about $35–slightly more for the Voyager connector I needed ($18) than for the camera ($17). Here’s how I went about it (with a few pictures).
This short write-up about making custom step covers goes back to something I did years ago on my first RV, and quickly duplicated after getting my current one.
Inevitably, dirt gets tracked in. In a campsite with grass, a paved site or patio, or good gravel, it’s not too bad. But sandy and/or muddy areas become a problem. I can take off my shoes, Milo wears his “shoes” all the time.
Off-the-shelf RV step rugs aren’t often the exact side you need, and tape/velcro doesn’t work too well to keep them in place, especially if you have carpeted steps.
Making your own Step Covers
Here’s what you need (everything can be purchased at Wal-Mart, Menard’s, etc.):
There are lots of rugs that would work for this, but at the very least it needs to be one that you can cut to size with a knife or scissors, preferably with nothing around the edges. Here’s an example:
The first order of business is cutting the rug into pieces to fit the steps. That should be pretty self-explanatory.
Next, anchor two of the male half of the snaps with a screw near the front outside edges of the stair tread:
Lay the rug on the stair tread, and mark the location of the snaps. Cut a small hole for the female side of the snap, and use a hammer and the rivet tool included with the snaps to set it in place. That’s it!
Last fall, I wrote about installing a PC power supply to power the remaining 12V DC loads in my RV, but that’s getting replaced with a DC-DC converter. The power supply did the job it was supposed to, without fail. But there are a few drawbacks with it:
The power supply converts AC power from the inverter to 12V DC. That means the inverter is on, and there’s an extra conversion that wastes energy.
Under load, the 12V output from the power supply is lower than I’d like. At the source, it drops to about 11V, and my rig’s 12V wiring is mediocre at best. Vent fans, water pumps, etc. all run a little slow.
The power supply doesn’t respond well to sudden load increases. This is most evident with the stereo system.
Just about every RVer has a few power adapters, often referred to as “dogbones,” to make sure that they can connect to whatever power is available to them–this post will go over which power adapter types are safe to use, and which ones you might want to carry.
The job of a circuit breaker or fuse is to protect the downstream wiring from overloading and short circuits. Any wire configuration has a current rating, and a circuit breaker typically protects that wire.
Keeping that in mind, when we adapt an RV with a 50-amp plug (NEMA 14-50P) to either a 30-amp or 15-amp receptacle, the circuit breaker at the source will shut off power the wire’s limit is reached. At worst, under one of these configurations, we experience a nuisance pedestal breaker trip:
50-amp RV cord plugged into 30-amp, 20-amp, or 15-amp receptacle
30-amp RV cord plugged into 20-amp or 15-amp receptacle
For any of these configurations, you can find a UL-listed power adapter, and operate your RV safely.
But the other way doesn’t work. Let’s say you have something you want to power with a normal 15-amp plug. That includes a patio light, a heated hose, space heater or a string of flamingo awning lights. Now suppose you don’t have a 15-amp receptacle on the pedestal, or that you have something else plugged in.
Can you adapt down from a 50-amp or 30-amp receptacle on the pedestal to one for your 15-amp appliance? NO. If there was a problem with the appliance, or its cord, you could easily melt it before the breaker is overloaded enough to trip.
Note that in any of these situations, and even when plugging your RV directly into a pedestal, a receptacle in poor condition is still a hazard. A loose connection can easily generate enough heat to melt your plug or start a fire without tripping a breaker. If a plug goes in with little resistance, the receptacle probably needs replaced.
Power Adapters that are Safe to Use
All of these power adapters will have a smaller, lower amperage plug (male blades) on one end, and a larger/higher-amperage receptacle (female terminals). Look for UL-listed versions of these adapters, preferably with rigid grab handles.
50-amp RV plugged into 30-amp source
Power adapter has 50-amp female receptacle (NEMA 14-50R) and 30-amp male plug (NEMA TT-30P)
These adapters allow for the connection of a smaller cord to a larger source. The cord in this situation could be overloaded without a breaker tripping, which is a safety hazard. These devices cannot be UL-listed.
30-amp RV plugged into 50-amp source
Power adapter has 30-amp female receptacle (NEMA TT-30R) and 50-amp male plug (NEMA 14-50R) DO NOT USE!
Any combination of 15-amp and 30-amp receptacles plugged into 50-amp source
Power adapter shown has 15-amp female receptacle (NEMA 5-15R) and 30-amp female receptacle (NEMA TT-30R) that are split from a 50-amp (NEMA 14-50P) plug. If you look closely, the handle for unplugging is a thin rubber strap that hooks on to the sides–that style isn’t very easy to unplug, and they’ll break, usually long before the plug itself needs retired. DO NOT USE!
Differences between RV Plugs and Common Household Plugs
Perhaps the most confused RV plug is the 30-amp TT-30, which looks very similar to the common 3-wire clothes dryer plug (10-30) which was installed in homes built prior to 1994. The two plugs are physically different in the center pin, but more importantly, they’re wired differently. The dryer plug supplies 240V, with a ground-neutral bond. This bonding means that the ground–which is designed to be a safety feature–is also current-carrying, which negates that function under certain conditions. The National Electric Code prohibited that practice in new home construction beginning in 1994, and a 4-wire plug has been used since then.
If having an electrician install a 30-amp service for an RV, make sure that it’s a TT-30 configuration, and that it’s properly wired to supply 120V with separate ground and neutral.
Which brings us to another plug, the RV 50-amp plug, which is a NEMA 14-50. This plug is commonly found on electric ranges, and is similar to–but different from–the typical dryer, which uses a NEMA 14-30. The 30-amp dryer plug has an L-shaped neutral, whereas the 50-amp RV plug has a straight blade. While not common, it would be safe to plug a 50-amp RV into a 30-amp 4-wire dryer receptacle, but not a 30-amp RV into a 50-amp range receptacle.
Is there a way to plug a 30-amp RV into a 50-amp pedestal?
Yes, but it’s not a product that you can just go out and buy. Do do it safely, you’d need a short cord sized for 50-amp service into a subpanel with a 30-amp breaker. If enough of you are interested, we might build one up to show the process.
Ok. Enough already! I’m a new RVer–what power adapter should I carry with me?
Each of these adapters have a rigid, molded grab handle, and have the plug at the proper orientation so that the cord and plug aren’t strained when hanging. Identify which type of RV you have based on the plug images below.
If you have a 50-amp RV, it should have a plug like this:
In that case, you can plug in anywhere (50-amp, 30-amp, and 15-amp receptacles) with these two adapters:
It didn’t look that dirty for the most part when I got it, but I knew it wasn’t the cleanest. The ceiling just had a slight grey hue, and if you took something down (like I did with the kitchen remodel), you could see a definite difference in color.
Some of that was yellowing, which I couldn’t do much about. But the dirt had to come down. It’s a padded vinyl of some sort, so it shouldn’t be that hard to clean, right? Well, as far as I can tell, the film is a mix of oily particulates, possibly from diesel combustion, dirt, road grime, and who knows what else. But the oily particulate bit is what makes it an interesting animal–it’s not a typical dusting or kitchen cleaning operation.
I’ve had several “false starts” trying to clean it–I’d do one small section, only to get frustrated by how slow it wast going and stop. It was also tough to see when you’d gotten it all removed–the difference wasn’t so stark as to be obvious when you’re up on a step stool.
But finally, last week, I got to a routine that seems to work pretty well…
Since there was so much stuff out of the way, it seemed like a good time to get rid of some nasty looking wallpaper in the bedroom. Every attempt at cleaning got a little dirt off, but it just never looked clean. A few coats of primer and paint can’t hurt.
Here’s what it looked like before:
Before paint.And after a couple of coats of primer:
By this point, the floor wasn’t too wet any more, but it still had a ways to go. Somewhere along the way, I worked my way around the plumbing, trying to cut the carpet as close to the wall as I could.
In the middle of this, I also decided to finally put up the backsplash in the kitchen, but I’ll do a separate post on that later. Here’s a teaser:
Now back to plumbing. I’ve grown to like PEX tubing, and the steel crimp rings that have overlapping bands. It’s easy to see at a glance that you have a good crimp, and the tool isn’t too expensive. Here’s what I have:
I bought mine at Lowe’s some time ago, and if memory serves me correctly, I paid closer to $50. I just went to look for a picture and link for the crimp rings, and I’m cringing at how much more I paid locally–$15 for a 25-pack at Lowe’s, $35 for 100 on Amazon. I lost count, but I used most of two 25-packs of crimp rings, which should give you a feel for the amount of re-plumbing that occurred.
Most of the brass fittings and all of the valves from the old configuration were reused. The nice thing about the crimp rings I linked is that a side cutter can get them free. The copper rings take more work, and the tool has to wrap around the pipe, which would have been difficult in the space I had.
In the picture above, you can see the plumbing starting to come together. The drain line from the tank on the right will continue to the tee over towards the left, stopping along the way to supply the pump. The three valves connected to blue pipe control flow to the pump from each tank, and you can see the first of 2 drain valves installed toward the left. Note that I’ve started to label the lines–it’s too easy, and will make it easy in the future to figure out what’s going on.
Now it’s more or less all finished up, except for a few loose ends tying all of the pipe. The round black thing on the overflow line at the front of the tank is a vacuum breaker, to prevent siphoning when the tank is overfilled. This was a problem previously, as it would sometimes siphon nearly half of the water out before drawing in air.
The way everything is set up now, with the drain and pump supply sharing the same tank outlet, I’m able to connect the pressure sensor directly to the tank (lower front corner), in a position a little less vulnerable than before. After a check for leaks, it was time to fill the tank and get back to normal.
But I have plans for reconfiguring the side wall of the bed platform. There’s going to be a little more open space, and a shelf for boots/shoes in a previously inaccessible space. More on that next time!
So I left off last time with a little bit of carpet pulled up, and an idea of what I was dealing with. I needed to remove the side wall of the bed platform, which was a quick task of just removing a few screws. After (mostly) finishing draining the tank next to all of the plumbing connections, it was light enough to pull out away from the wall.
The carpet under the tank wasn’t too damp, but the wood under it was. Some of that was surely the mess I made getting everything disconnected, and moving the tank with probably about 10 gallons of water still sloshing around in it. While it was a mess, the wood was still solid, and there weren’t any signs of mold. It was pretty clear this was a recent thing.
It did take quite a while to get it all dried out. There was still carpet around the pipes against the wall, and under the wall itself. So as the floor dried, more moisture weeped out. Ultimately, I let it go for about a week before all the signs of water were gone.
The goal of the plumbing modifications was to get things consolidated along the back wall, and get all of the valving within easy reach. Here’s the start of that. The three valves connected to the blue piping are the supplies from each of the three fresh water tanks. Also notice that I replaced hard (well, PEX) pipe with flexible lines. For whatever reason I hadn’t gotten around to that on this RV–it makes a huge difference in the amount of noise the pump makes. If you ever want to do the same thing, here’s what’s needed:
And while on the subject of other modifications that are pretty easy for anyone to do, I should probably mention the expansion tank you can see in that picture. It’s a 2-gallon tank with a rubber bladder, with air pressure on one side and water on the other. It also reduces pump noise, but more importantly reduces the pulsing water flow typical from RV water pumps (by absorbing pressure spikes that occur with each diaphragm cycle in the pump), and it allows the water to flow for a little bit before the pump cycles on. A quick flush of the toilet, or even filling a glass of water can often be done without the pump needing to run, and it’ll reduce the number of times the pressure switch has to operate. For about $40 (link here), it’s an easy and cheap upgrade.
Next time will cover a little bit of painting and starting to put things back together.