Putting things back together

Since there was so much stuff out of the way, it seemed like a good time to get rid of some nasty looking wallpaper in the bedroom.  Every attempt at cleaning got a little dirt off, but it just never looked clean.  A few coats of primer and paint can’t hurt.

Here’s what it looked like before:

Before paint.

Before paint.And after a couple of coats of primer:

Looking cleaner already.

By this point, the floor wasn’t too wet any more, but it still had a ways to go.  Somewhere along the way, I worked my way around the plumbing, trying to cut the carpet as close to the wall as I could.

Lots less moisture than before, but still wet.

In the middle of this, I also decided to finally put up the backsplash in the kitchen, but I’ll do a separate post on that later.  Here’s a teaser:

Now back to plumbing.  I’ve grown to like PEX tubing, and the steel crimp rings that have overlapping bands.  It’s easy to see at a glance that you have a good crimp, and the tool isn’t too expensive. Here’s what I have:

Apollo Crimper

I bought mine at Lowe’s some time ago, and if memory serves me correctly, I paid closer to $50.  I just went to look for a picture and link for the crimp rings, and I’m cringing at how much more I paid locally–$15 for a 25-pack at Lowe’s, $35 for 100 on Amazon.  I lost count, but I used most of two 25-packs of crimp rings, which should give you a feel for the amount of re-plumbing that occurred.

Most of the brass fittings and all of the valves from the old configuration were reused.  The nice thing about the crimp rings I linked is that a side cutter can get them free.  The copper rings take more work, and the tool has to wrap around the pipe, which would have been difficult in the space I had.

In the picture above, you can see the plumbing starting to come together. The drain line from the tank on the right will continue to the tee over towards the left, stopping along the way to supply the pump.  The three valves connected to blue pipe control flow to the pump from each tank, and you can see the first of 2 drain valves installed toward the left.  Note that I’ve started to label the lines–it’s too easy, and will make it easy in the future to figure out what’s going on.

Now it’s more or less all finished up, except for a few loose ends tying all of the pipe.  The round black thing on the overflow line at the front of the tank is a vacuum breaker, to prevent siphoning when the tank is overfilled.  This was a problem previously, as it would sometimes siphon nearly half of the water out before drawing in air.

The way everything is set up now, with the drain and pump supply sharing the same tank outlet, I’m able to connect the pressure sensor directly to the tank (lower front corner), in a position a little less vulnerable than before.  After a check for leaks, it was time to fill the tank and get back to normal.

But I have plans for reconfiguring the side wall of the bed platform.  There’s going to be a little more open space, and a shelf for boots/shoes in a previously inaccessible space.  More on that next time!

 

Getting things dried out…

So I left off last time with a little bit of carpet pulled up, and an idea of what I was dealing with.  I needed to remove the side wall of the bed platform, which was a quick task of just removing a few screws.  After (mostly) finishing draining the tank next to all of the plumbing connections, it was light enough to pull out away from the wall.

View of the edge of the carpet with the bed platform’s fascia removed. I hate when flooring is run under walls and other permanent stuff.  All of that carpet is damp, so the tank has to come out.
It’s wet. But it’s definitely still solid, and there aren’t any signs of mold.

The carpet under the tank wasn’t too damp, but the wood under it was.  Some of that was surely the mess I made getting everything disconnected, and moving the tank with probably about 10 gallons of water still sloshing around in it.  While it was a mess, the wood was still solid, and there weren’t any signs of mold.  It was pretty clear this was a recent thing.

Slowly starting to get dried out.

It did take quite a while to get it all dried out.  There was still carpet around the pipes against the wall, and under the wall itself.  So as the floor dried, more moisture weeped out.  Ultimately, I let it go for about a week before all the signs of water were gone.

Plumbing manifold feeding water pump.

The goal of the plumbing modifications was to get things consolidated along the back wall, and get all of the valving within easy reach.  Here’s the start of that. The three valves connected to the blue piping are the supplies from each of the three fresh water tanks.  Also notice that I replaced hard (well, PEX) pipe with flexible lines.  For whatever reason I hadn’t gotten around to that on this RV–it makes a huge difference in the amount of noise the pump makes.  If you ever want to do the same thing, here’s what’s needed:

And while on the subject of other modifications that are pretty easy for anyone to do, I should probably mention the expansion tank you can see in that picture.  It’s a 2-gallon tank with a rubber bladder, with air pressure on one side and water on the other.  It also reduces pump noise, but more importantly reduces the pulsing water flow typical from RV water pumps (by absorbing pressure spikes that occur with each diaphragm cycle in the pump), and it allows the water to flow for a little bit before the pump cycles on.  A quick flush of the toilet, or even filling a glass of water can often be done without the pump needing to run, and it’ll reduce the number of times the pressure switch has to operate.  For about $40 (link here), it’s an easy and cheap upgrade.

Next time will cover a little bit of painting and starting to put things back together.

Drip, Drip, Drip…

You never want to hear the water pump cycle on when no one is using water.  There’s only one thing it could be…a leak.  Now we aren’t talking about something every few minutes, or even every few hours.  It was more like once every few days, but I knew I had a leak.

Looking down at the maze of plumbing and wiring (the carpet is on the floor).
Looking down at the maze of plumbing and wiring (the carpet is on the floor) after the mattress platform was removed.

Continue reading “Drip, Drip, Drip…” »

My FoodSaver turns 25, and fixes the Air Conditioning

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FoodSaver V2244 — a more recent version of the original that I have.

With anything I carry in the RV, it’s nice when it can perform more than one function.  Such is the case for my FoodSaver vacuum sealer–it gets used regularly preparing food for the freezer, and for cooking sous vide.  But it also falls in the “tool” category as well.

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How’s that?  Well, it’s actually a pretty good vacuum pump. I had to replace the air conditioning condenser on the car, and the FoodSaver has been called into action (on more than one car, no less) to pull a vacuum to get it ready for charging.  On the bottom of the lid, there’s a hose connection that will fit an 1/8″ hose barb, and with another fitting, can adapt to the flare fitting on the AC gauge set.

Evacuating the repaired system prior to charging.
Evacuating the repaired system prior to charging.

It may not be the fastest, but it’s able to meet the manufacturer’s  charging spec (-14.6 psig) in less than a minute.  I tend to run it a little longer for good measure, but it’s probably not necessary.

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So what about my FoodSaver?  It was a hand-me-down when I graduated from high school, and has been with me ever since.  It’s not exactly pretty–the white plastic has yellowed some–but it still works just fine, now at a little more than 25 years old.  I’ve repaired the heat strip once during that time, but it was just a matter of re-gluing the protective cover in place.

So–if you want another gadget for the kitchen, and need to convince the mechanic it’s good for him (or her) too, there you go.  If you’re the tool buyer, expand your budget just a bit by showing it works in the kitchen too!

 

 

 

Replacing PowerTech Generator Mounts

Last time, I briefly mentioned that the mounts on my generator were in need of replacement.  You can see in the picture below that the rubber had deteriorated quite a bit, and was an oozy, greasy mess.

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Old, partially collapsed mount.

PowerTech sells a replacement mount for my generator, but at over $60 each, plus shipping, I felt it was severely overpriced.  It looked generic enough, so I figured I could find what part they used or a compatible substitute.

Sure enough, a Lord (or Doosan) J-20922-2 mount matches up and does the job, at half the price.  Showhauler anchored it to the motorhome body with two bolts (3/8″ hex head), and a 14mm hex head bolt went up from the bottom into the generator.  It could have been easier, except that the hole to get to the bolt directly from underneath wasn’t big enough to get a 14mm socket through–the bolt into the generator had to be dealt with with an open-ended wrench.  Fortunately, the generator was light enough (ha!) that a pry bar could lift it enough to slide the mount out.

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What’s left of one of the old mounts.

The old mount was obviously long gone, supporting the weight of that corner without any rubber in between.  With any luck, the new mount will be good for quite a few years.

New mount installed.
New mount installed.

While I was in there, I also replaced the fuel filter.  It was probably long overdue, as I’d never done it–and finally figured out that the number printed on the old filter was missing a digit.  I was able to cross-reference it to a Baldwin BF7648 or Luber-finer FP588F, and the fuel pump took care of filling the filter and re-priming the injection pump.

More 12-volt Tweaks

I mentioned last time that I wasn’t happy with the efficiency of the 12V power supply I installed for running the lights, water pump, furnace, and a few other smaller items.  How bad was it?  Well, putting out 2 amps at 12.3V, it was drawing 52W from the wall outlet.  That’s less than 50% efficiency, and while it isn’t a lot of power being wasted, I expect this power supply to be on 100% of the time–so in terms of total energy wasted, it would account for a pretty big chunk.  At 5A output, it was a little better, but still needed 100W in (60% efficiency).

Continue reading “More 12-volt Tweaks” »

Cooking at the HDT Rally

It’s been a while since I’ve posted anything non-technical, and needed to share a few notes from a cooking seminar–geared toward cooking healthy foods in small spaces–I presented at the National Heavy-Duty Truck Rally in Hutchinson, Kansas a couple of weeks ago.

The audience at the HDT Rally seminar.  Credit for this picture goes to Sondra Kahanamoku.

First, let me start by saying that I’m no chef, by any stretch of the imagination.  This is my second time presenting the seminar, but the first was as a stand-in for someone better (John).  The second time was all me, and it probably shows in the more basic nature of what was presented–though I still think it turned out pretty well.  This post will cover some of the recipes and equipment used.  Apologies for the lack of pictures–I was talking and cooking the whole time, and food was being passed around the room as soon as it was ready.

Equipment

 

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Anova Precision Cooker with Bluetooth

Before I start talking about recipes, let’s talk about some of the equipment I used.  Obviously, with sous vide recipes, a sous vide cooker was part of the mix.  I used an older Sansaire cooker (about $160 on Amazon now), but you can get a little better deal on the Anova model (with Bluetooth and a phone app, which lets you look at recipes and send settings to your cooker).

I hadn’t really planned to talk about them, but a set of utensils I brought along got quite a bit of attention.  The nesting set hangs from a stand with little magnets in the handle of each utensil, and there’s a ladle, spoon, slotted spoon, pasta fork, and spatula in the set.  They get used all the time, and go through the dishwasher regularly.  At about $20, it’s a pretty good deal.

Joseph Joseph Nesting Utensil Set
Joseph Joseph Nesting Utensil Set

Appetizers

This time around, we made two very simple appetizers–a caprese salad and a buffalo chicken dip.

Caprese Salad

What’s a caprese salad? Don’t worry, there’s no lettuce involved.  All you need to get started are a couple of tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil, salt, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar.  Slice the tomatoes and mozzarella, arranging them in a row alternating between a slice of cheese and a slice of tomato.  Sprinkle some chopped basil (preferably fresh) on top, and drizzle with a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Buffalo Chicken Dip

This one is pretty easy, but does require some heat.

  • Buffalo wing sauce (I prefer the Hooter’s stuff, as it tends to mix better.  You can get it at most grocery stores, but it’s also a good excuse to go to the restaurant!)
  • Cream cheese (2 8-oz. packages)
  • Shredded chicken (fresh chicken can be boiled, or cooked sous vide, or you can use canned chicken)
  • A bag of Frito’s Scoops

Mix the wing sauce and cream cheese, and either microwave or simmer until the cheese is soft.  Stir together, then add chicken.  Best served warm, and can be easily reheated.

Meats, Sous Vide

It’s been a while, but I’ve talked about cooking sous vide a number of times before (here, here, and here to get you started).  Working with an immersion cooker is really nice in an RV, particularly with meats that you’ve bought and frozen.  I usually keep a full freezer, and it’s easy to pull something out, drop it in the water bath, and walk away while it defrosts and cooks unattended.

At this year’s seminar, we cooked two meats this way–a beef bottom round roast and some tuna steaks.  Cooking this way, you can get a very uniformly cooked piece of meat, and especially with the roast, one that’s very tender without being overdone.  In either case, season as you’d like before putting the meat in a bag.

For the tuna, all you need is 105-degree (F) water, and about 15 minutes of cook time.  For the roast, you’ll cook for at least 8 hours, at about 130F, for a nice pinkish-red all the way through.  If you have more time, it’ll just keep getting more tender, without turning grey.

The only picture I took, after the seminar was over and there was some "clean-up" of the leftovers.
The only picture I took, after the seminar was over and there was some “clean-up” of the leftovers.

Bratwursts

Cooking bratwursts was a last-minute add-on to the seminar.  The idea came from Gregg (who runs RVhaulers), who bought an immersion cooker after last year’s seminar.

It’s a really simple idea, and makes less of a mess (and less heat) than boiling bratwurst.  Especially if you buy them vacuum packed, drop the bratwurst into 140-degree water for at least 30 minutes or so.  The bratwursts will be fully cooked, and then you can toss them onto the grill or into a hot skillet to brown the outside.  The flavor is richer, and they stay nice and moist.

Skillet Macaroni

  • 1lb lean ground beef or turkey
  • Onion (either chopped part of a fresh onion, or a couple of tablespoons of dried onion)
  • 1 can of stewed tomatoes (do not drain)
  • 1 can each of black and dark red kidney beans (drained and rinsed)
  • 1/2 of a packet of taco seasoning
  • 1 cup of elbow macaroni (whole wheat preferably)
  • Serve with sour cream and cheese on top.

In a large skillet, brown the ground beef and onion, but don’t drain off the grease.  Toss in the tomatoes, with all of the liquid in the can.  Add the rinsed and drained beans, taco seasoning, and the macaroni.  Cover, and simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until pasta is tender.

Serve in a bowl with a bit of sour cream and shredded cheese on top.

What else?

Hopefully there’s something here that interests you.  I’m planning on doing the seminar again at next year’s rally, so I’m looking for ideas and suggestions.  The goal is to present things that are a little different and fairly healthy, but easy enough to make in a small kitchen with ingredients that can be found just about anywhere.

 

More Electrical Changes

Last time I talked about this project, I left you hanging with the lead acid batteries from the old house power system gone, and the generator connected to the chassis batteries.  But I didn’t have anything hooked up to power the remaining 12V house loads–things like the furnace, water heater, water pump, slide out motor, and a few lights.

There are lots of ways to approach this, but first it’s worth knowing how much 12V power I really need:

  • Water heater: just control logic here, no actual heating.  It isn’t enough to worry about.
  • Furnace: about 8 amps running at 12V.
  • Water Pump: 4 amps just before reaching the high-pressure cut-out (in other words, when it’s under the heaviest load)
  • Slide out motor: 30 amps while in motion, more at the beginning when it’s sort of stuck in place.
  • Lights: since they’re all LED, not more than 10 amps.
  • Awnings: Just control logic here, and from what I can tell the only reason they use 12V at all is to power the on/off switch.  I may be able to eliminate the need for 12V at some point in the future.
  • A couple of power outlets (10A max each), an antenna amplifier, and a small sound system.

Other RVs may have other considerations:

  • Leveling jacks: I have them, but they’re driven by the chassis/starting batteries.
  • 2-way (LP, 110VAC) refrigerator: The control board runs on 12V on these.  Very little power needed, but the refrigerator doesn’t run without it.  If you have a 3-way (LP, 110VAC, 12VDC) refrigerator, you’re using 12V power not just to control the other two, but also to provide cooling–which is a significant demand.
  • Generator: Most RVs are configured to start the generator from the house batteries.  I talked about why I don’t like that setup here.

When you look at the list of things that need 12V DC power to run, almost all of it is stuff that only needs to run for short periods of time. So while it might work, I really don’t want a big DC power supply running all of the time.

I’ll admit I didn’t have it all settled when I pulled the old batteries, but I had enough of a plan to get by.  The slide-out was the biggest thing to deal with, and while I could in theory have wired it to run off of the chassis batteries like the generator and jacks, power for its motor and all of the lights in the slide out were fed in together–I didn’t want to try getting another set of wires into the slide out.

So the short term solution was pretty crude, but it’s still working just fine.  I picked up a cheap 12V lithium jump starter, that’s able to be charged while the main leads are energized.  It’s also not one of the ones with the smarts to limit current until the car’s battery is charged to a certain point, so it’ll work with no other battery in the system.

To test it out, I clipped the leads and connected them directly to the slide-out’s controller:

Battery jumper pack connected to slide out wiring.
Battery jumper pack connected to slide out wiring.

This configuration has no trouble running the slide out through its full travel multiple times.  It’s micro USB charging port is more than enough to charge it and run the few 12V LED fixtures in the slide out.

For the rest of the 12V stuff, I’m using a 300W adjustable power supply.  I’m not quite happy with it, as it’s not nearly as efficient as I’d like, so there’s not much point in dwelling on it at this point.  It works fine, but I’ll post back when I have something better in its place.

With an extra set of leads, I now no longer carry the bulky SLA battery pack as insurance against a dead toad battery.  It just isn’t necessary any more–the lithium jump starter does a better job.

Which batteries should start the generator?

Ok–fair warning up front: this post is probably going to sound like a little bit of a rant. 

One of the high-current 12V loads I needed to figure out how to power as part of the 48V lithium-ion project was the generator, and if you’ve been following the lithium house battery project, you already know that I resolved the issue, at least for now, by connecting the generator to the chassis batteries.

While it may seem like an obvious solution in my case, it remains that most motorhomes are configured with their generator powered by the house–not chassis–batteries.  I’ve never liked that configuration, and I thought I’d take a few minutes to discuss why.

Continue reading “Which batteries should start the generator?” »

Windows Updates and Reducing Data Usage, Especially with Multiple Devices

Let’s face it–most full-time RVs have more than one electronic device running Windows.  While there are certainly some that stick to Apple (pricey) or Linux operating systems (free!), this post will hopefully be useful to those of you wishing to squeeze the most out of your data plans.

Continue reading “Windows Updates and Reducing Data Usage, Especially with Multiple Devices” »